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Friday, February 10, 2012

Coromandel 4 - The Karangahake Gorge

Last weekend we spent time with good friends Richard and Vanessa at the Karangahake Gorge.  State Highway 2 goes through the gorge – a deep, narrow gorge with a big river – the Ohinemuri -  running through the middle of it.  The town on either side – Waihi and Paeroa – are linked only by this road. 


It really makes me think about the difference between roads in New Zealand and South Africa.  In South Africa we are used to National Roads – which are generally big, wide and often dual carriageway.  Then we have the Ms – the Metro Roads – like the notorious M1 in Gauteng – my nemesis when I have to drive to Joburg from Pretoria!  There are the R roads – Regional roads – usually smaller than the Ns, but linking cities.  They are often the “old” National roads – as they are superseded by even bigger and straighter roads that people can drive even faster on, they are re-designated as Rs.  Most are tarred – although not all.  And then there are the D roads (in KZN at any rate) or S roads (in Free State) – District or Streek roads – which are rural roads, often un-tarred and meandering over the countryside joining little towns, farms, settlements, etc.  In New Zealand, all roads are State Highways – and many of them are like regional roads – narrow, winding, through incredibly steep terrain – but most are tarred, well maintained and carefully signposted.

The Karangahake Gorge Road is no exception – steep corners are marked, changes in the speed limit clearly shown and roadworks regularly carried out.  But I still find it scary to drive along the edge of the river at such speeds!

We did 3 of the walks – the “windows” walk, the rail tunnel walk and Historic Walkway – about 9kms in all.  The area was a gold mining area, and there are remains of tunnels and mine works and refineries all along the walk.  The windows walk took us through tunnels carved out of the side of cliffs and along paths carved out of the sides of the cliff.  There are some “windows” in the tunnels – short passages to the outside which let in some light and leave some wonderful outlooks.  It has been carefully made safe by DOC, but I met some people inside who used to play in the tunnels as children.  Then there were just crossed pieces of wood that said “Keep Out” - a perfect invitation to little boys!  It was a fascinating glimpse into the way of life of the early gold miners.


Then we walked through the 1 km railway tunnel – damp and further than it looks, but well lit.  The Windows walk required a torch – and thank goodness we had one.  The tunnel and railway was the original link with the Bay of Plenty.


Our last walk of the day was along the old railway to Waihino – good views of the river, some historic ruins and lots of interesting plants – cabbage trees, brambles, complete with blackberries, much to Richard’s delight, croscosmia and even some dahlias, growing in what must have been someone’s garden long ago – only the flowers remain.

We did the clever thing – we had 2 cars and so we left one at either end of the walk.  I enjoyed it much more knowing I wouldn’t have to walk back.  And at the end was the carrot on a stick – the Waihino Railway café and their amazing cappuccino. We walked fast enough, not only to get some exercise, but to get there before they closed at 4.00.  It is a delightful café – the old Waihino Station has been converted into a restaurant and tourist centre.  A train runs from nearby Waihi a couple of times a day – and the Café is the end point.  The platform is decorated with a luggage trolley with old suitcases, there is a wonderful old clock, baggage scales – quite delightful.  And as I said, the coffee is amazing!  The waitress actually offered us a loyalty card, we went there so often in the two days we were in the area.

Spending the weekend with Richard and Vanessa was wonderful again.  We met up on Friday afternoon and went for a walk around Waihi – the town itself is not madly exciting, but the walk around the mine rim was good.  Then we spent Saturday evening at Waihi Beach and Bowentown – mostly in the car because of the cold wind – and Sunday morning at the Waihi Waterlily Gardens – a really beautiful meander around the ponds and streams.

Special friends make even commonplace places special and we had such a good time re-connecting and talking about everything and anything.  And drinking lots of good coffee – Richard has introduced us to Wild Bean Café coffee – hope it’s as good at home! We hope to see them at least once before we head off home.

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